This may be the most exceptional tasting experience of the year; fresh and juicy with bright, pure orange marmalade scented fruit and dried fig; toasty, mature rancio, vanilla, sweet, but racy with pronounced refinement, complexity and layers of flavor, a 50-year-old warhorse that dances like a new-born colt; in this business you have to kiss a lot of frogs, this is one experience that makes that all worthwhile.